13th Tuesday January 2015
Holiday planned (last minute!) we were al set to go. A nice early start meaning we were collected by the taxi at 6.20am. We got to Heathrow terminal 4 around 7.15 and checked our bags in – 30kg out of 60kg. Threafter we looked for some breakfast (as usual Bhavni is hungry) at one of the restaurants – Dining street. The food was only so so and apparently replacing a sweet pastry with just a slice of toast is not possible – ever! Getting on the plane, we settled down and I watched lots of movies on the first flight (Bhavni less so due to sleep). Getting to Abu Dhabi, time to change terminals, through security again after a long queue (or four). The plane was delayed a bit and the bus transport to the train meant that getting off the bus took ages. The flight was quite noisy as passengers were arguing about all sorts – including sitting near exits. With a young hostess carefully explaining to the people at the exits that they are responsible for everyone and in case of an emergency they must help and what kind of emergencies could occur (even if you were not scared of flying, you definitely would be now!) Finally, the guy who didnt want to sit by the exit, changes sits with the person next to us and so we have the pleasure of teh argumentatives company (he was a just a guy not wanting the responsibility and wanting to be next to his family – in the seat in front). Then comes the food, of course special meals are served first and often collected last meaning you are locked into your seat for most of the flight by a tray. additionally, the service being so slow meant that the lights out time was kept at a minimal, meaning no sleep for the wicked landing at 4am!
14th Wednesday
The plane arrived in Colombo Airport around 4am. It was faster getting off and not too bad to get through security and get our bags. We got a free local sim card for Bhavni’s phone (which comes with 50Rs credit) and changed some cash into Rs for 195Rs/£. Leaving we met Sam who had Dhadni on his name card – our driver for the next 9 days. Sam brought the car and soon enough we were on our way. We were driving to Anuradhapura around 180km away. This early in the morning we could go fast as there was no traffic. Well both of us kept drifting asleep, so it passed even quicker.
For breakfast, we stopped at a local eatery, which had a local buffet – Rice, Sambar, curry and string hoppers, with a sweet coffee for me. The food was cheap! We soon were back on our way.
Drifting in and out of sleep, we eventually arrived at Anuradhapura. The first thing there to see was a really large white Stupa. We walked up and around it (clockwise without shoes). Bhavni bought some flowers and offered it.
Our next stop was the Bhodi tree temple (with the tree thought to be from the cutting from the original Bhodi tree that Buddha became enlightened from). The complex was on a square platform reached by stairs on all 4 sides, with plenty of people praying inside. The actual tree was on a higher platform that was closed except to the keepers.
From here, we had a walk to a even larger white Stupa than the one we first saw (Ruwanwelisaya Stupa), which is massive standing 103m high. Again we walked around it, taking our time. By the end the sun had just started to make the jewel on the top glitter.
Now we had to buy tickets to enter the older part of the city – $25 each. Our first stop was the twin pools. Due to the rain that had fallen the last month, the pools were completely full of water, whereas normally there would be steps down into the pools.
After we visited the old Stupa (Jethawanaramaya Dagoba), which was without the whitewash which covered the newer ones – this had at one time been the third largest structure in the world (122 m) and more recently covered with plants and almost reclaimed as a hill. After we visited another of the large Stupas and the museum where a nice lady explained alot of the finds. We also saw some more ruins before heading to lunch.
Sam took us to a tourist restaurant where Bhavni ordered a western breakfast that came with fruit and breads. It was quite nice as we had a view over the lake and could see Mihintale in the distance, with the stupa on the hill reflecting white in the sun.
After we started our drive to Mihintale, where Sam got us to near the museum. Sam just thought we would want to see the museum, but I said we would like to have a look at the foot of the stairs. So the foot became the first flight which then became the next corner, until we climbed all the way. Entrance was 500Rs each and the stairs were really shallow. We had to take our shoes off for the top as well (I dont mind paying for someone looking after shoes, as long as they say and not expect). We climbed to the Buddha statue there (baking rocks on unprotected feet), before having a look around and then climbing back down.
We found Sam relaxing at the bottom, amused that we had climbed in the heat. We then had a look around the free museum, with one of the locals who could not speak English signing at all the rooms. Well he was a bit of a con man as when we gave him 100Rs (just for 10mins) he said 2000Rs. Yea right – not that gullible.
After it was a drive to our hotel – Aliah resort and spa near Sigiria, which took about an hour. We arrived at 5, checked in and bid Sam a good night for the day. We freshened up and on my insisting went to the pool for a dip (with the fading light). We were there for only 20mins before going back to the room, changing and then heading to the restaurant where we just had some chips (I know really bad – but they were tasty). It was then off to bed.
15th Thursday
We had a semi early start, going to breakfast around 7.30. The breakfast was a buffet, with lots of different items – meaning we had quite a few full plates. By the time we were finished and had collected our stuff it was 8.20. Our next destination was Polonnaruwa, about an hour away, and the second old capital of Sri Lanka.
Sam was unable to be a guide for us here as he did not have the permits, so we used one of the guides that were around the entrance area (as without a guide we would not understand lots). We bought the entrance tickets and the guide after showing us around the museum said that he charged $25, but we said that 2000Rs is the rate, so he eventually agreed.
The first stop was the ruins of the old palace – which used to be 7 floors. There were lots of other ruins and temples nearby and we spent a bit of time here, seeing all the different places and things.
We then went to another of the large Stupas (Rankoth Vihara) which was originally (until the British rediscovered it) covered in vegetation and looked like a hill – Bhavni and I walked around it.
Our next stop was the very famous 4 statues of Buddha carved out of the same rock.
There were 2 seated, one standing and one sleeping. After looking around Bhavni and I sat on an outcrop of rock for a while looking at the scene.
Next we saw another stupa – this whitewashed and not as large as the other one, before visiting a large ruined monastery. This had some intricate carving around the outside, but the inside contained a headless 30m statue of Buddha open to the elements. It was quite awe inspiring to be near the base with it looming above.
After a stop at the lotus flower bath/pool, we saw a temple with some remaining frescos, before our final visit, to the statue of the king (who looks like a priest).
Leaving Polonnaruwa, we drove back most of the way to Sigiria stopping at a random hotel for lunch. A little dubious about the place which was pretty water logged, Bhavni ordered Pitu, which was really a good thing as it was quite nice.
After lunch Sam talked us into the Elephant ride – $30 each. Not really that great, as we mostly felt sorry for the elephant. Though she let me ride on her shoulders after the water logged wading bit. Basically a tourist trap, especially as the handlers complained about the tip.
So it was after 3.30pm that we found ourselves at Sigiria, paying the entrance fee. From the entrance its a slight walk through the gardens to the beginning of the climb. This climb goes past some fallen rocks and then has a detour to the famed frescos (which are up a few flights in metal circular stairs, then back down again). Next is the mirror wall then the Lions paws before the final climb to the top (where the royal ground was). We spent quite a while at the top, waiting until the sun set, before heading down. Bhavni even managed to see our hotel from the top.
By the time we got down it was nearly dark, so in the car journey to the hotel Sam avoided the road where elephants may be crossing. Back at the hotel I went for a quick swim in the dark, before we got ready and went for dinner. This was amusing as we had requested Spring Rolls for dinner (after they where aghast at our chips previously). 1 Spring roll came on the plate…. Well we also had rice and curry which was much better (and the mater dei let Bhavni get the curry from the buffet). We even finished it off with ice cream.
16th Friday
After another nice breakfast, we checked out and left by 9am. Our next destination was Dumbulla, not too far away. Sam dropped us of whilst he found parking, which took a while before rejoining us. The Golden Temple is quite a sight, as there is the really big (30m) golden sitting Buddha.
After paying the entrance fee, we started the climb up (not as high as Sigiria), to reach the caves. There are 5 caves at the top. The first was a smaller cave with a large statue of the dying Bhuda. The next cave (kings cave) was the largest with many statues of Buddha and paintings on the ceiling. Water was collecting in a caged of area, which is sacred and is used for cooking the ceremonial food.
We had to leave the cave as it was the 11am pooja, so we just chilled outside for around 20 minutes before we could see the last 3 caves. The next was the next largest, with lost of statues and paintings of Buddhas life. The last 2 were smaller containing statues and painting also.
We climbed down (looking at tamarind trees), then continued our journey south. The next stop Sam arranged was a wood working factory, where fist we were shown a demonstration of a local wood that by subjecting the sawdust in water to acid and metals became different coloured dyes. We had a look around and Bhavni bought a wooden alphabet toy.
Or next stop was at a spice garden – Euphoria Spice. This was really good as Ruwandi, the owner was very passionate about her organic garden and herbal remadies, taking us around all the plants she had and telling us their use. We were given some spiced tea and even a coconut, as well as demos of how to get cinnamon. She even gave me a lead to Kalpesh’s request for organic coconut oil. We bought some vanilla pods from her.
After a stop for lunch, we had a look fat a Batic factory, where Bhavni had a try at some clothes, before getting to Matale, where there was a Tamil Hindu Temple. Huge does not describe the temple spire, with its many many gods. Apparently it was 200Rs to take pictures the spire, but no one was around and we only read the sign when leaving.
From here it was directly to Kandy (with the rush hour starting). This was Sams home turf, so he knew all the little short cuts (even saying hi to his ‘uncle’), to get us to the Bahirawakanada Temple. Giving the entrance fee to the little business monk, we spent some time looking at Kandy and the area around as well as climbing up near the statue.
On the way down, suddenly Thiwanka (Sams friend and our tour organisor) appeared and jumped in the car introducing himself. We then proceeded to our Hotel – Elegant hotel, which turned out to be quite a distance away. Lovely property though. Sam and Thukawara left us to go home, whilst we had a couple of theplas to start off with, then some rice and curry for dinner, watching the bats fly around in and out of the dining area.
17th Saturday
Not too early a start today saw us eating the served breakfast (mix of western and Sri Lankan) and waiting at 9am, though we did not get picked up until 9.15. As we were staying out from Kandy, it was not to difficult to go to see the 3 temples. The first, (200Rs each) was old and wooden, with lots of wooden carvings. The priest (90 years old) kept on explaining to Thiwanka the significance of the items, which he translated for us. Picture.
Heading out, our guides bought breakfast – hoppers with chilly pickle – at a road side restaurant and were surprised that we could cope with the chilly heat. But it was nice.
After we went to the second temple, again 200Rs each. This one was a brick and stone structure, dedicated to Buddha and other gods. We had to hurry a bit near the end as the puja was starting.
We decided to forgo the third temple (due to time) and head to the Botanic Gardens. On the way we stopped at a tea factory and got guided around the place. We met the guys at the top having a cup of tea, where we got ourselves a box of spiced tea.
Thiwanka came with us inside the Botanic garden as our guide. Bhavni nearly got local tickets until she had to reply in Sinhalese. We had a walk around all the different areas of this park (opened up by the British), seeing grasses, palms, cycads, bamboo and others. Bhavni had a lesson in colour names in Sinhalese in the orchid house.
For lunch we went to the 5th floor restaurant on top of a shopping mall. Rather than sitting right inside, I wanted to sit near the balcony – it was a little to hot, so we went one row in. The usual rice and curry, which hit the spot. We left and after looking at some old pictures took the stairs down.
Next stop was the gem museum (I dont think they got the hint we are not that interested). I will say the building was nice though, and after the obligatory tour we were in the showroom. However instead of getting out quickly, Bhavni reverted to being a girl and took a while looking at the different items, meaning it was 3.30 when we got out.
The guys suggested we go to the 4.30 dance show in the nearby building as it is air conditioned and new, however that would only allow us to go to the war cemetery, as it was rush hour. Now Bhavni made it clear she was not interested in the war cemetery, so they quickly accommodated us and we went to the central market instead, with all the fruits and veg and other items.
After a drive around the lake, we went to a dance show. There were lots of different dances – peacock, spinning, plate balancing etc. The annoying bit for me is that there was a person with a big head, who insisted on taking lots of photos by leaning forward and stretching out his arms – obscuring my view. At the end we had to move to the outside for the fire dancing segment (which I liked more than Bhavni).
Leaving quickly, we still managed to get into a traffic jam, due to a bus coming up the hill and very little room. We went to the view point and took some photos before going to a jewellers, to change some money (which was at a better rate than the airport).
Now we went to the tooth temple. It was really busy as it was puja time. There were lots of different areas to see, including the main temple, the relic area (which had a massive queue if you wanted to look in the door) and the speaking place where the prime minister does his first speech.
After we bid bye to Thiwanka and went to a massage place. I did a bad job of negotiation, but Bhavni was better and we ended up getting an hour massage for 7000Rs total. It went on a little longer than expected (I enjoyed it more then Bhavni), so we decided to go for coffee at a place Sam worked at.
We headed back to the hotel and Sam stayed at the provided accommodation. I did a bit of star watching, though not for too long as I did not want to get bitten.
18th Sunday
We woke up early to watch the sun rise over the mountains, before getting ready. After the served breakfast we checked out and drove south again, with plenty of stops for pictures and the odd coconut.
Sam decided to take a shorter route which went through some pretty scenery. At one of the junctions, we spotted a sign to at Aberdeen waterfall, so we asked Sam to take us there. Well the few km indicated took quite a bit, especially through a very rough area near a village. Sam asked a couple of times to make sure we had not gone wrong.
We eventually got to the place, which was a path leading down the valley. Well we started going down (with Bhavni leading the charge), but it soon became apparent that this was not a little way. After a 100m+ climb down (on the dis-repaired path), we reached the falls. The falls were really nice and not many people must visit. After the required photo taking, we began the slog up in the heat. Arriving at the top we took a bit to recover before heading back.
We proceeded to Maskelia, the nearest town to Adams Peak, where Bhavni and I bought some supplies for the coming day. Sam arranged for Lunch at a local Hotel (not touristy at all), where the proprietor led us in past the local bar and prepared for us some rice and curries. With drinks (including a beer for me), the total came to 880Rs.
After we headed to the village near the base of Adams peak, and checked into our hotel for the night that Tankawara had arranged – the Punsisi Inn. Checking in the lady near the desk said we were a bit high, thinking nothing much as the building was only 3 stories, we were led up, and onto the hill side. Our rooms were the second highest row – 50m up. If we had known we would have not brought all our bags inside as the poor guys carried them up. Simple basic rooms, but that was all we needed.
So we decided to bed down for the night after sorting out our stuff for the next day. Suddenly around 5.30, music started to reverberate around, from speakers in the village, with chants and hymns. This continued until around 9pm, so the plan to sleep early did not happen. It disturbed Bhavni so much, she managed to eat quite a few biscuits at 8pm. When the music finally stopped we managed to get some sleep.
19th Monday
Eeek, it was soon 1am when the alarm went off, so we got up and got ready, struggling a little, but just out the door before 2am and down the stairs to the street, where we turned right and started our walk. Near the beginning (after the village), there was some monks asking for addresses and donations – we gave 1000Rs before departing.
So the beginning was not too bad, with the a few steps now and again, followed by short flights of stairs. But all too soon, those flights became more frequent and longer, until it was mostly climbing.
The stairs were generally a little uneven, so that also did not help us. Though the couple of groups of guys passing us playing “Eye of the tiger” did amuse us.
On the way up Bhavni talked a bit to some english/nz folks, who seemed to think we were foreigners and proceeded to describe Norfolk in relation to London. We just kept going for most of the time. I took longer breaks every 40-50 steps, whilst Bhavni climbed more slowly and took less breaks. We kept on saying at the next area we will grab some tea from one of the vendors on the roadside, but this never came, even with them telling us we were going to be early. Well after the last one told us we were 30 mins away from the top, the way got even more steeper, with handrails and zig zagging abit. We could see down now at the far of villages and the row of lights that marked our trail up.
Roughly 3 hours after we had started our assent (5am) we came to the top. The police were quite friendly and told us keep our stuff secure as it gets quite crowded up here. Whilst we had a chance, we looked around the complex on the top – only 20m or so wide – going to see the “footprint”, which is a depression in a rock 7m above where the real footprint is meant to be buried. This is really holly so there were no photos allowed.
After we found a spot facing east-ish (which was near the entrance), where we waited with a tourist who was from Belgium, and we got talking about places to see and go in Sri Lanka, (though he was a real backpacker). We had some thepla an biscuits whilst waiting.
Slowly as more people arrived, the sky lightened and we could see misty mountains and mist covered valleys emerging. Spectacular. It was quite sudden the appearance of the sun – announced by a collective “ahh”. We took some more photos, then headed to the western end to look at the famous triangular shadow of the mountain we were on.
We stared on our way down soon after, well I was in pain, the tendon on my right knee was really hurting. So for most of the going down with the rails, I kept on holding on to them to reduce the weight on my knee. Luckily the pain reduced a lot as I worked it and did stretching exercises, so soon enough I could go down just a bit slower then normal.
We lent a walking stick to a local for a while (he had gone up the day before and had stayed the night near the top). It was his third time climbing – the second he had to give up 300m from the top as it was really busy then.
We finally got to the hotel – 2 hours from the top at around 9am, where we found Sam near the reception – he said we should go use the room then have some breakfast, so that is what we did, though the climb to the rooms was a bit brutal.
After showering and final packing, we went down to the dining area were we had breakfast – lots of toast and tea. We were then on the road by 10.15, on the way to our next stop – Nuwara Elia. It was quite a nice drive, with some picture opportunities on the way, especially with a few waterfalls and the tea plantations around.
Whilst taking some pictures of a waterfall we noticed a tea “castle”, which we had to visit. We went to the lookout before sitting down and having a nice brew each. After which Bhavni and I bought a bit of tea from their shop. Getting to Nuwara Elia, it was a little past lunch. Sam suggested a place we could have lunch – the Apline Hotel – but they seemed to be taking a while, so we gave up and went to our hotel – Unique cottages. We asked about lunch and they were not sure as it was a bit late. Sam got a little angry as they told him no, but us yes after they found out. So we let Sam rest and for us it was vegetable rice, tea and a divine mango juice.
After a little rest in our room – plush but a little small for the price, we went for a walk in the town. The buildings really have an old colonial style (deservedly little england). We bought a few supplies from one of the supermarkets. Hearing lots of noise, we saw the presidential convoy appear and disappear, going very fast through the town. We completed our walk around the block and rested at the hotel for a bit.
Soon enough it was time to get ready and go to the Hill Club for dinner (shirt, jacket and trousers). It had been a bit fun as we had had to email them as they did not take phone bookings. Well after Sam picked us up and we drove past a couple of times trying to find it (though Bhavni recognised it from her researching), we found our selves at the posh club. I had to wear a tie (got away with my light jacket) – though I only did a half Windsor! Starters were superb, but the main meal – specials – were not so good. Desert was also quite nice. We then had coffee in front of the fire place, but I was a little fidgety as I was a bit tired now, so we got the bill and paid by dollers – though we had to sign for it, We found Sam outside in his car talking to his friend, so we quickly made it to the hotel for some well deserved sleep.
20th Tuesday
We really don’t do chilled holidays as our alarm went off at 4am and we got ready and went down. We checked out having to pay for lunch yesterday and collected our take away breakfast.
We drove to Horton plains. I think we were still quite sleepy, as the most I remember is Sam pointing out milk farms for the first bit of the drive. As the dawn light started to appear, we were climbing and the views were becoming spectacular. We passed quite a few cars stopped to take pictures (we stopped a few times but briefly). Unfortunate we passed the best point to catch the sun rise and were on the plateau, when it rose. We did see a few larger buffalo animals though.
At the entrance we paid in Rs as the dollar exchange was appalling (the guy said he had to go to Nuwara Elia to change it). We then went through the bag check – we could not take the Millo in, so we have it to Sam to take to the car. Well I suppose finding that stopped them looking at some of our other packages, which they would not allow. (Its not the food – its plastic in case you are going to litter – which we would not do).
The walk is a circular walk on the plains, and as we set off, we saw a monkey in the trees disappear out of view. There were not that many animals to be seen, as we followed the track, going over what seems old river beds and other trails. Soon, we came to our first stop – The Little Worlds End, where we stopped for some photos and staring over the cliff. From here, we continued on to the main Worlds End.
Getting to the worlds end, we were one of the first. The view was a little misty, but we could see quite far still. After a few photos, we climbed to the upper area and took some more photos before sitting down and looking out at the view. We ate a little of the food we took – minus an apple which rolled over the cliff. As it was getting busier, we left and continued on the trail which went inwards on the plateau.
We got to Bakers fall area, and we took a path down that others seem to have taken – quite a slippery steep path.
Getting to the bottom, we faced the bottom of the falls with the river running over smaller rapids. This was a good place to stop for us to have the rest of our packed breakfast. After the scramble up (easier than going down), we found there were stairs to the falls, however the view was not as good as the one we had got earlier. On the way back, we followed a small river, with some pool areas, until we got to the start. (Late starters were just starting the walk, with one even carying a prayer mat). We got to the car around 10.30am (and after saying hello to the friendly animal), we headed out on our way to Ella.
The drive down was nice (descending nearly 1000m), going through forests and alpine areas, before getting back to tea plantations, with views of mountains all around. Getting to Ella, we went to see a hotel called 98 Acres, which is meant to be luxurious. It was with a superb view of the mountains and tea plantations.
We then stopped for lunch at the Mount Heaven hotel. We sat on the terrace and ordered vegetarian rice and curry. They gave a bitter gourd curry, which we did not want, so Bhavni asked for some dhall, which the waiter initially mimed was all gone, but then went to see what could be done. We ended up with some fresh dhall which Bhavni enjoyed. After lunch we had a tour of some of the rooms – the first had a small pool in it, the large villa had a fish tank with lots of fish in it.
We then drove to Kataragama, where we checked into our next hotel – The Orchin Boutique Hotel. We wanted to visit the famous temple here, but we decided to do this in the evening puja time, so we had a couple of hours. I decided I wanted a swim – Bhavni read a bit and asked after dinner.
We met Sam later and went into town. Well its interesting parking as the locals are trying to flag down you to park so they can charge for looking after your car. We parked in a “car park” and walked it into the complex. It was really busy and noisy with the puja. Sam explained some of what was going on, and after we walked to the Stupa further away. There were some poor temple elephants chained up on the way which was a bit depressing.
After we went back to the hotel where the waiter had set us up a nice candle lit table overlooking the pool, for our chips (which were delicious).
21st Wednesday
Guess what, we were up again at 4.20am as our Jeep was waiting for us at 5.30am. It was a bit of a ride to Yalla national park, getting there near dawn. There were not many cars, but the gate only just opened when we arrived. Trying to pay, we found they did not accept dollers (which is really unusual), so most of out Rs got used.
Driving in, we saw quite a few gazelles, monkeys and lots of peacocks, including a shot of a peacock and a stork silhouetted in a tree. There were lots of buffalo around also. Eventually we also saw a couple of elephants. Then news came that a leopard had been spotted. So became a tedious convergence of lots of jeeps all wying for the shot of the leopard. Eventually I actually asked to forget about it and carry on. We then went briefly to the coast for a few shots then back for a bit more spotting – no crocodiles though, Finally on the way out we saw a whole lot of wild boars.
We made our way back to the hotel (trying to go to a bank on the way which was useless as we did not have the passports on us). We had time to freshen up before leaving at midday for our next stop Galle.
On the way we went to change some money. We went into a bank at one of the towns, but amusingly the person inside said not to buy from them, but instead go to the jewellers across the road as they would do a better rate. The jewellers indeed were a better rate 199Rs per pound (asking where we had been).
Carrying on we had to make an emergency stop for some bananas. We had some Russian tourists there, who were trying to buy a coconut, but could not communicate – trying to give 200Rs. Saying it was too much produced a 1000Rs note. Anyway that got sorted then we were back on track. We stopped at a seaside restaurant, with a good view, but the trouble was the staff were not helpful and would not compromise about veg options. After we stopped for some coconuts before getting to Galle.
Near the city, we quickly stopped to take a couple of snaps (from a distance) of the strange fishing technique that is on all the brochures with the person perched on a wooden platform in the sea. We had to quickly drive on before a person asked for money (going rate is 2000Rs).
We got to our hotel – Tamarind Hill – Nice, and had a bit of time to freshen up before we had to meet Sam. He was a little late, meaning that we missed the sunset by 10 mins or so over the fort, but we still had some time to take photos in the light remaining. One of the locals would jump into the sea if you paid 500Rs, but not really for us. We had a talk around the fort with Bhavni having an ice cream, before finding the closest to a local restaurant in the fort. We had kottu! the local evening dish – stir fried roti and vegetables. We watched our food being made – noisy but fun. We even had banana roti for dessert.
After dinner we went back to the hotel and relaxed. We stayed a bit in the lobby reading and I asked for a pen, which was amusing as the waiter accosted me on the way to the room saying that another waiter may not be able to work without the pen tomorrow.
22nd Thursday
We had told Sam that today we did wanted to take it easy and have a little more time at the hotel. To that end we still woke up at 7.30, but made our way to the pool and had a nice half hour swim in the forested surroundings.
Getting ready we went for breakfast at around 9am. The hotel was being used by 2 different wedding parties for photos, so we saw proper Kandian dress and clothing whilst eating.
Breakfast was a nice affair, though mostly western to Bhavni’s unfortune. We had another go at trying the curds with honey, but was not really our thing. After breakfast (and a few photos) we went to our room and got our items ready before checking out at 11 – I made a point of returning the pen.
Our first port of call was to visit the famous Jungle beach, which involved driving up the local “hill” then parking and walking down to the beach. Its a really small beach and completely full of tourists sunbathing. We thoought it was busy but Sam said that normally you can hardly move there.
After we drove into Galle and took some photos of the place in the light, with Bhavni and I walking around the block near the clock tower. Soon enough it was time to leave Galle.
The drive north was mostly chilled, with Sams first stop a moonstone mine. The person showing us around said it was a short walk to the mine, which it was, but in the heat without sun protection it was a bit hot. The mine looked like the mine shown in the video of the place in Kandy, and it was fascinating to see first hand (even though no one was there). Bhavni kept on getting given shards of moonstone, until she had a small collection. Back near the showroom, we were then shown the cinnamon plantation and the area they produce the sticks and oil from the leaves. After looking at the showroom full of stones, we decided to get a small bottle of cinnamon oil which the gentleman showed was strong by dipping a bit in Bhavnis water bottle (which permanently marked it we found out later).
Back on the road, we thought we deserved an ice cream, so gave Sam the task, When you are looking for something its harder to find, so it took a while before I spotted a shop selling it.
It was getting past lunch and we had decided we wanted to eat a propper local lunch. The first place Sam took us to had basically run our of rice and curry so we found another and ordered 2 portions there. Interesting building – they were going for black interior and loud music. However the food was good and I even had a milo and Bhavni an ginger beer. The restaurant staff (probably never having had proper tourists stop) were putting their heads together (and we think discussing how much extra to charge us). When the bill came it was … 360Rs. Enough said. Outside we saw how the rotti’s were prepared to make Kuttu and a cow just walking on the road with articulated lorries going around.
From here we drove to MT Lavina (electing not to do the river cruise that Sam suggested) and checked into the Mt Lavina Boutique Lodge. The caretakers of the property made us some tea and we said bye to Sam over a nice cup.
We were the only guests staying so we got the top floor apartments, in this really nice and unusual hotel. Our bathroom for example was partially open to the outside on one side (but private) and we had a sitting area on our floor also open aired with lots of plants.
We had a brief walk to the Mt Lavina Hotel (and looking inside), before going back to the hotel, then back out for dinner. The caretakers organised a tuk tuk and we went to the local beach front to the Loon Tao restaurant. It was a nice meal on the beach with the sea sand and live music (though it took a while to get our bill). We called the tuk tuk and went back to the hotel. He wanted to charge 200Rs – yea right.
As we were not sleepy we watched “The Terminal” trough the mosquito net curtain.
23rd Friday
We did not get up until 8am. For breakfast it was fresh hoppers – nice. I had one egg hopper as well. Followed with some nice tea,
Leaving we got to the station, just missing the 9.45 train to town, so we waited for the 10am train (which was 10 mins late) in the really hot morning.
The train was really cheap – 20Rs total and took 25 mins to get into town. From the main station we walked out and went into the pettah. That was really busy with lots and lots of little shops, crowds and commotion. After a bit we then made our way to the Fort area, walking right past the presidential palace and seeing the clock tower.
One of the locals (sure they are all part of some plot) started talking to us and then said that a gem outlet was having a big sale on – then actually called a cab to take us there – really. But it actually was in the direction we wanted to go and was at a rate of only 50Rs (when it should be 100Rs), so we went with the flow. Well we were in the outlet for a bit as they showed us some jewels. In the end we did buy a small moonstone, as it was cheaper then I had been told at the mine yesterday.
We walked to the Viharamahadevi Park near to where we were (after a brief stop at a cutlery and crockery shop). The park was not that interesting but we had a couple of lolly pops before getting to the Town Hall and taking some pictures there. With the heat it was time for a break – going to a cafe overlooking the area. I had an ice coffee and Bhavni had her usual ginger beer.
Bhavni wanted to go shopping so we found the Odel near by. What a disappointment for us – it pretty much was like a Debenhams, so we were soon out.
Luckily out next place to visit was not too far away – the Gangaramaya Temple. 300Rs entry a person, it was full of lots and lots of artifacts, from the ivory at the front, to lots of small statues and bookcases full of pictures and stuff. The famous wall of Buddha statues was there also. When leaving we found out one of the monks had been to UK (Birmingham) for a while but did not like the cold. He said we could catch the 101 bus back to the pettah area.
Getting to the main road to catch the bus we saw another place related to the temple (Seema Malaka), which was a little temple complex in the lake. We had the tickets so we could go there to see the statues surrounding the small complex and take some photos.
Back on the main road, we found that the buses came past really full, with people almost hanging out of the doors – school finish time, but we managed to get on one – an experience. The conductor somehow managed to keep squeezing though collecting money, whilst I tried to stay upright and safeguard my possessions at the same time.
At the main station we got out and went through the Pettah again. This time we bought some presents, a shirt for me and a Saree for Bhavni’s mother. We then back around the fort for some more photos and then onto the Galle Face Green. This was quite a long walk in front of the sea, with lots of other people enjoying the front. Another few ice lollies for us on the way as we watched the sun get a little lower and the kites flying on the green.
We arrived at the Galle Face hotel and went to the terrace restaurant there to watch the sun set over the ocean whilst having some drinks. We walked to the Cinnamon Grand Hotel where there was a Sri Lankan restaurant, but we found it was all booked up, so we walked to the recommended place – Raja Bojan. We stated recognizing the area and realized this was where the tuk tuk had dropped us near the jewelry place.
We had the buffet – lots of food but so so quality after the good food was had had previously. It was too late to get a train back, so we got a tuk tuk – the guy gave a good estimate of the cost to get back (he had a meter) and it was a long way – 10Km. We gave him including tip 450Rs.
Back in the hotel we tried to watch a film, but we gave up as we were both shattered.
24th Saturday
Our last day here. We had a slightly lazier start and went down for breakfast – this time western. Today was going to be a lazy relaxed day, so after going up and sorting our bags out, we went out and just walked to the main road, to stop at some supermarkets to get some bits and pieces. We also found a Saree shop that had different designs and got one for my mother.
Getting back to the hotel, we chilled in the lounge during the hottest part of the day, watching a film and reading a little, before going out again at 3.30. We walked to the beach (crossing the rail way tracks) and had a walk along to the Mt Lavina hotel. It looked like it was getting cloudy so we thought we should get back in case it rains.
Whilst waiting we saw how some of the dishes are cooked and Bhavni started making avid notes, right until our taxi turned up at 6. We took some photos with our hosts and then were on our way. We managed to get to the airport at 7.15 with using the highway, where we checked in.
Bhavni did some more searching for gifts, but there was not that much around and all in dollers. We were hungry so we got some rice and curry for $10. Apparently chicken is vegetarian, and the guy seemed supprised we wanted the rice changed with the chicken juice all over it.
The flight to AUH was ok – certainly better than the one to Sri Lanka. We then boarded the A380 to London and were given 3 seats between us, allowing us to mostly sleep on the way.
At the airport father had left way too early and was waiting for us in Costa as we came out in the cold.
