Saturday 3rd November
Our morning started with a couple of tasks, a little last minute shopping and posing some letters, before popping into Sues house to ask about her computer. Near lunch time we drove to the airport, depositing our car with the suitcase at the short term car park, before going to the domestic terminal there. We found out that we could take the walking sticks in hand luggage so that stopped us having to wrap them to our bags in cling film. We boarded the Air New Zealand flight to Queenstown which showed the Hobbit tie in safety announcement film. The flight near the end had a really nice view out the window as the plane flew quite low – I think from before Wanaka – and we saw mountains and lakes all around. Eventually touching down, we exited the aircraft and were greeted to a quite cool air. Collecting the car we drove to the hotel – Kawarau Hotel, where we were given room 240, which had a decent view of a mountain. While we were checking in there was a light snow shower – the first we had seen in NZ. Leaving the hotel we decided to explore and carried on to the end of Peninsula Rd, where we went for a walk in the biting cold breeze from the lake.
Getting back to the hotel we had a nice cup of tea and got ready for going into town. Bhavni had booked the gondola ride and dinner with star gazing, and we got parking right next to it. The Gondola goes up 500m or so, so the views were superb, before dinner we had a couple of hot drinks after the cold outside, then sat for dinner – a buffet while watching the day turn into night. We really got full. Stargazing was still on, so we were ushered to outside and up the hill in a group to some telescopes, where we spent a while being shown clusters and galaxies. It was quite late by the time we finished, so we got back to the hotel and fell asleep with the really comfortable bed.
Sunday 4th November
After checking out of the hotel, we drove back into Queenstown, to do some last minute shopping. Bhavni’s aim was to find some decent socks as it was still quite chilly and I decided i should get a beanie. We eventually found some socks – I also got a pair, and I got a beanie – Try finding a cheap beanie without the equivalent of “I LOVE NZ” on it. Just in case we also got a new knee support for Bhavni and some blister plasters – just in case.
We had some breakfast at one of the little cafes around the lake front – some croissants with chocolate drizzled on top, before heading back to the car. On the way we found a bakery and got a muffin and some Turkish bread, for later. Taking our time we headed towards Te-Anau , stopping and taking pictures at the various look out points, with the stunning scenery around. The route goes from the mountains to plains and than back to hills. At Te-Anau we checked into the Distinction hotel, and into a room whcth had a waterfront view. We took a walk to the DOC center, just a 2 minute walk up the road and picked up the tickets for our walk. We had to pay for helicopter rides as they were not sure if a section would be closed due to avalanche risks. Walking back to the town center – one street from the hotel, we went to the I-Site for advice on what to do around the area for the one day we were there and some ideas for dinner. We walked up to one of the cafes – wierdly named sandfly cafe, we had some chips, before heading out to see the Bird Sanctuary, though we took a little detour first and looked at the start of the Kepler track, there were a few different birds there, and we came at feeding time, so saw arguing Kia. Back in town we went to the purpose built cinema there and watched “Shadowlands”, which was a nice artistic film with just beautiful shots about Fiordland. For dinner we went to an Italian restaurant – which was well reviewed. We had aglio olio pasta and a pizza – the pasta was really good.
Monday 5th
We had a little time in the morning before starting the trek, so after a breakfast at the bakery, we went and had a little explore of the area, driving to Manapouri, which is even smaller than Te-Anau, but we found out that this is where the trips to Doubtful sound start. We drove to the hotel which is just up the road from Te-Anau downs, and parked there for $6 a night, as this seemed safer then leaving the car at the DOC car park.We were an hour or so early for the ferry, so I just sat near the wharf, while Bhavni did a little photography. Just before 2pm, the coach with the rest of the people for the afternoon came – including guided walkers, and we boarded the boat. The boat ride was just over a hour on Lake Te-Anau and they pointed out interesting places including the marker for where Quintin McKinnon is thought to have disappeared.
The boat dropped us off at Glade Wharf, where we started our walk. This was a gentle one hour walk on a really nice track, taking us pass Glade house (where the guided walkers stay) and along some nice scenery to the first hut – Clinton Hut. We chose some bunks for ourselves and set our stuff down, before having a look at the rocks on the river nearby, (getting chased away by the sandflies). We got back just in time for the start of the guided tour by the ranger, who talked about the plant life around there. After we all went to the common room and cooked dinner – freeze dried pasta, before retiring to bed.
Tuesday 6th
The night was quite uncomfortable as I am not used to sleeping in bunks, and it got quite cold in the night. It was actually quite nice to get up for me, and after getting ready we had tomato soup and biscuits for breakfast with instant cappuccino. We stated the walk at around 8.00am after the ranger gave the all clear around 7.30.We both were wearing lots of layers – including gloves and beanies as it was bitterly cold, but most of these slowly got removed until we were both just wearing our merino tee shirts. It was a lovely walk, with us alone for nearly all of it – Although we kept on passing and getting passed by a teenager and his mother from America, when either one of our parties stopped. The ranges got even bigger as we walked and we had to go through many areas marked as avalanche zones – so we were not allowed to stop. Bhavni obviously wanted to go off track in one of these areas to the base of a waterfall !
At one of the bigger clear areas – which in retrospect must be avalanche related we heard a loud noise, which seemed to be a little like a low flying plane and lightning, which was a little confusing, until Bhavni spotted the source of it – an avalanche on the upper peaks. We just stood and watched it.
A little later, just 2 minutes from one of the shelters (where the Americans were having lunch), we came to a boulder/dry river bed area, which was a nice place to stop for lunch, where we had a “One Square Meal” bar each – surprisingly filling – enjoying the serene surroundings.
Back on the track we later found two of the DOC rangers sitting by the track and we had a nice chat about the walk and the surrounds – our next hut was less then an hour away. When we got to the hut – Minataro, we dumped our stuff at some bunks that we chose – downstairs in a room of 6 bunks and made a nice hot cappuccino, sitting outside and admiring the scenery. After the rest, we went to see the surroundings – there was a helicopter landing pad in the lake nearby with some ducks swimming around, so we watched for a bit before carrying on the path we would have to take tomorrow.
We got to the part of the path that just went up over the McKinnon Pass, and climbed a little, before deciding that this was a bit crazy to tire ourselves. As we started going down we met another couple going up, we said that they would go up rather than regret it if the weather was not good enough the next day – a few minutes later we were on our way up also. It was quite a tiring walk and we were wondering if we had made the right decision, but we met a couple from Andorra, who said that the view was amazing and that it was only another 25 minutes or so to the top, so we persevered, and eventually reached the top. The views were amazing and we sat near the edge, looking out into the next valley eating thepla. Getting back was harder then going up, but we made it back in good time and made dinner – freeze dried chickpea curry with rice, before listening to the talk with the ranger there – who wished us rain, as it apparently is more magical!
Just before retiring to bed, we got talking to the Canadians and Americans, who were told by the ranger that sometimes kiwis wonder around the track – well we went out with them to see if we could find any, but no such luck.
Wednesday 7th
It was a slightly more comfortable night, as the room was adjoining the mess hall and there had been a fire going as we went to sleep, though the sound of kia’s went on through the night After a breakfast of soup and biscuits, we stated our walk at 7.30, again with lots of layers on as it was quite cool. As we went along these were removed till quite quickly we were just in tee shirts again. The climb up the mountain seemed a lot easier then the fay before – due to us resting and knowing what to expect – allowing us to really enjoy the views in the differing light.
When we got to the top, we had a rest looking out over the view and enjoying a “One Square Meal” bar, before pushing on to the highest point and the pass shelter. The pass shelter had gas facilities, which allowed us to make a nice cup of cappuccino and relax a bit, while having a good view of nearly the entire Clinton valley which we had walked. Carrying on we encountered some actual patches snow, before beginning our downhill part. It initially was a bit hard and not brilliantly formed, but then we got to the part where they had shut of the main track – due to avalanche risks – having to use the emergency path. Well this was really tough going with really long steps and small trails. Coupled with the fact that there were really no great views, this was the most miserable part of the walk.
But eventually we got back onto the main path – better then the emergency track but still steeply descending and rough. The path passed right next to lots of waterfalls and the path was constructed in these parts with steps. We met the next ranger around here and had a talk about the walk and the emergency track. Apparently the worst part was over and soon we passed Quintin hut (where the guided walkers stay). The path to Stirling falls was closed due to rock falls, so we could not go next to them.
A little further on the trees opened up and we saw the falls from a distance – apparently 400m as 100m of the bottom is not visible from where we were. It was not too far to Dumpling hut from here where we were to spend the night – arriving at around 2.30pm. The worst part of this hut were the large amounts of sandflies, but it was lovely to finally rest.
We sat around playing Quiddler with the Americans (and later the Canadians also) while enjoying our thepla (and getting amused by the amount of Nuttela being eaten), before making a final track dinner of freeze dried noodles.
Thursday 8th
Again our morning stared with a breakfast of soup and biscuits. We had to cover 12 miles of walking and catch a ferry at 2pm. We start walking at 7.00am setting a good pace. The path was quite undulating all the way and we walked for a couple of hours pretty much none stop, vaguely following the Arther river until we got past “The Boatshed” and reached Mackay Falls with the “Bell Rock”. The falls were quite impressive and we stood at the viewing platform there eating the last of our theplas. We had a look at the rock, which is a hollowed out rock that somehow got turned upside down, so that you can crawl underneath and stand up in the cavity – only I did it.
Continuing on we were walking through a meadow setting when I heard some sounds from the bushes on the side, waiting to see what birds the sounds were coming through, we eventually partially saw 2 birds walking, with long beaks – kiwis ! Well after that treat we carried on enjoying the views around for another 2 hours when we reached the Giant Gate Falls. This was a really nice spot especially in the sun to have lunch. We sat on some boulders out in the river and had some food. Bhavni and I both took off our shoes and socks and immersed our feet in the water – though we could not do it for that long at a time as it was numbingly cold – but wonderful.
After leaving it was just under a couple of hours to the end. The path was in places quite rocky with parts having been cut from sheer cliffs by prisoners. The path took us around lake Ada and eventually we got to the end part which was a really smooth easy to walk path – again built by prisoners. We suddenly found ourselves at the end – Sandfly point – I was not expecting to have finished the walk quite then! Luckily unlike its namesake Sandfly point had no sandflies as there was a stiff breeze, so we sat at the end of the wharf and admired the superb view from there, seeing all the group slowly arrive.
It was not too long before the boat arrived and we all got on to get to Milford sound – only a 20 minute ride. When we got there, most of the group we were in decided to catch the bus back to Te Anau (leaving at 2.30). We had booked on the 5pm bus (though we also could have left early), but we wanted to have a look around as we were at this famous sound. We asked one of the boat companies about a boat tour and we booked ourselves on for one – which was leaving at 3pm. Talking to the Andorians – the only others from the group left, we told them we had booked a tour and they did the same – well why not!
Freshening up it was amazing finding warm water in the bathrooms. Anyway at 3pm we got on the boat and it set sail around the fiord’s and around the famous Mitre Peak. We stood at the top deck in the front of the boat getting a really good view out. We got to see some penguins and some seals basking in the sun as well as getting close to one of the big falls there. I think the hanging valleys were one of the most coolest parts there. The tour ended at around 4.40 and we went back into the main building to catch our bus home. The bus driver was quite friendly, but had to spend a little while searching for some other passengers that were booked, but they were ones that had gone back on the earlier bus in out group. The Andorians also caught the bus, and we told them to get the bus to Te Anau Downs as we could give them a lift to Te Anau after. The journey was really nice as the views were quite spectacular, and we saw the place where the road was closed recently due to an avalanche and the Homer tunnel through the mountain. The bus driver dropped us directly to the hotel where our car was parked. Dropping the Andorians to the backpackers, we then checked into our hotel – The village Inn, a simple hotel without lakefront vies, but ample for just the night.
We quickly re-packed all our stuff and then went for a shower – so good ! For dinner we went back to the Italian restaurant and ordered a plate of aglio olio pasta each, but I asked for it to be extra hot as we had been having less floavoured food on the hike and I was craving it – I enjoyed it with a Peroni. Superb. We then got back and fell asleep by 10pm.
Friday 9th
It was nice waking up in a proper bed. We got ready and headed out to the hotel restaurant for our included breakfast. The sky was looking really interesting with lots of lenticular shapes, with an approaching front. Our breakfast included coffee, tea, toast and preserves. After checking out, we got in the car and stopped just at the DOC center to get our refund for the helicopter flights that we did not need on the Milford Track. It was amusing looking at the photo books of the track and seeing lots of the pictures with rain and low cloud and people wrapped up in their rain gear – we were so lucky.
We drove back to Queenstown, stopping on the way to take lots of pictures. There was much less snow on the peaks, with the hills having completely lost their covering. We drove right into town, parking up near to the bakery and went to get some food near the waterfront. I ordered an Eggs Benedict (remembering Shamil describing it fondly), while Bhavni ordered an Holoumi Salad – and the obligatory plate of chips. It took a little while to arrive and I was getting a little worried as we had a flight to catch. When it arrived and I stared eating my eggs – it was apparent we had over ordered – surprise. Anyway, finishing up Bhavni went to the bakery to pick up some muffins while I got the car, before going to the airport and checking in. We returned the car and had only a little while before we boarded the plane and flew to Auckland.
The view outside was quite cloudy until we got to the North island, where on approach I was able to recognise the Bombay Hills and Drury. After landing an collecting our bags, we had a little fun remembering where our car was parked, but were soon on our way – just a little after 4pm. Unfortunately I forgot to account for the fact that it was rush hour in Auckland on a Friday – it took nearly an hour to leave the traffic of Auckland. Well we were on our way and generally we made good time, getting to Taupo as it was just getting dark. This meant that the road to Napier from there was in the dark and it was quite a curvy road, but it was quite enjoyable – but difficult. We arrived at what we thought was the place, but the property numbers did not go up to what was required, so we stopped and asked at a house. It is amazing how friendly the people are; they asked us to come in, while they taked to us and tried to find out where we were trying to get to – eventually it transpired that we did not want to be on the other side of the river off the Tuki Tuki Rd.
When we finally arrived, the party was winding down, but Sivia got a pizza in the oven for us and I got some cheese to eat. We were staying a little up the road at a different place, so we followed one of Silvias friends to the place, which turned out to be an amazing house on a vineyard, where we got a superb room.
Saturday 10th
We managed to have a little bit of a lie in, and awoke to a lovely day and a nice view of a small valley with a river running through it. We got ready and had a lazy breakfast round the table with all the others in the house. I had forgotten how to tie a double Windsor.
A bus came around 10am to pick us up with all the other guests on board and took us to the venue. Bhavni and I tried to lend a hand where we could – laying out the chairs etc., before the ceremony started. It was a lovely ceremony with live classical music accompanying it.
After the ceremony had finished we all went into the pavilion for a nice lunch, then chilled while photos were taken. Mid afternoon we went with the couple and lots of the guys to the beach in the bus. The “Ocean Beach” was a little bit of a drive away, and really busy in the great weather – though I definitely prefer some of the beaches closer to Auckland. We watched with amusement as the couple had photos taken, including some with the water around their feet.
We headed back, and at the venue we helped out and mingled until dinner in the pavilion. The air stated getting a chill to it, especially after the heat of the day, so it was nice, a space heater was there. Dinner was nice and another large meal. Afterwords we spent time mingling until the bus arrived near midnight and we got dropped back to our accommodation. Everyone knocked out very quickly.
Sunday 11th
We woke up again and had another nice lazy breakfast around the table with the others, before packing up and driving to the venue. Quite a few of the people were leaving early and came and said goodbye, whilst we had said we would stick around for a while and go for a vineyard cycle with Silvia and the gang – including her father. We all drove down to the cycle hire place and got onto “Beach Cruisers” which were fixed gear, had big handlebars and were quite upright. We went in a group – Silvia, James, James, Silvia brother and girlfriend, Silvia father, Bhanvni and I – for a nice leisurely cycle and eventually we reached the Clearviewwinery, where we stopped.
All James family came over and we sat on a large collection of tables having some nibbles. I joined some of the guys doing wine tasting, but because I was driving I had to use a spittoon – I felt guilty wasting the wine! Its amusing seeing how you slowly get to know about wines, as I was able to explain why we drink wines in order and the differences between some of them. The person behind the counter even gave me a try of the house special wine – not normally on the tasting menu.
Eventually at 3pm Bhavni and I decided we had better go as it was a long drive to Auckland – we cycled and returned them to the hire shop before getting in our car and returning home with a little sight seeing of Napier by going to the top of a hill by the port. We got to see the road on the way to Taupo and saw how windy and hilly it was – no wonder it was fun driving down on Friday. After stopping in Taupo for fuel we carried on making quite good time all the way back.
When we got back, the power went out just as we got in, but Bhavni really felt like paratha, so she ended up making it by torchlight and we ate in the dark.
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