23rd June – Sunday
It was an early start, with our taxi pickup at 5am, which took us to Heathrow T5. We stood in a queue for check-in, but were referred to go to the family check-in at the end of the terminal. This was a bit of a queue, with one of the staff doing some weird rearranging of the barriers, but we were early enough that we had no problem.
Our flight was the BA0540 to Bologna at 8am. It arrived just after 11 am local time. Getting the bags and the stroller was ok (though the shade of the stroller had disappeared). We then went to get our car, which took a little while as the place was swamped (including people getting angry). We got our car, which was a volvo, though a little smaller than the quashqui that we were hoping for. It was quite a struggle to get to the car as you have to walk a ways, with no real signage. When we got there, we noticed a bit of damage on the car, so took some photos just in case.
Finally we were off – cautiously. We drove just a little outside the airport to a restaurant (Ristorate Pizzeria L’Ospite), and parked on the main road outside. The restaurant was defiantly not a tourist place, and most of the diners were elderly. The staff did not really speak any English. However we got some really lovely pasta – agli oli and a pommedero, with all of us enjoying. This also was a reminder that when ordering coffee it would be an espresso by default.
Back on the road, we experienced the toll roads (easy actually) on the way to Florence (110km and under 2 hours), which let Airyen sleep. I drove past our hotel (Forte16 SPA & View), but managed to turn around. We came out of the car into the sweltering heat, before checking in to our apartments, and letting the staff park the car.
We found out (from the front desk) that a lot of the supermarkets are closed today, however the conrad city would be open, so we went out and walked along the walking street for a while, until we came upon a small shop which we assumed was the place (no it was not), where we picked up some milk. We then walked back (doing a bit of window shopping as well).
Back at the apartments Airyen and I made our way to the spa pool which was empty and quite nice. We had a nice swim and were joined by Bhavni a while later.
Then it was time for dinner. We decided to have a walk again down the walking street and see what we came across. Bhavni got tempted to eat at the Universo Vegano, which seemed to have good reviews, but the food was so so in the end (though the American lady seemed to rave about it). We then made our way back – though with a pit stop for some amazing gelato.
24th June – Monday
After some breakfast in the room, we were out nice and early. We walked down the walking street and made our way to the Piazza del Duomo. It was a special day in Florence so a lot of places would be busy and there was plenty of security around. We walked around the Duomo and stayed to watch the cardinal come and go in the The Baptistery of St. John.
From here we made our way to Piazza della Signoria, via Piazza della Repubblica and a small market first, where we had a little wonder around. At the Piazza della Signoria, we had a look at the tree that was there and the many statues and fountains (including the public exhibit from the Uffizi gallery), before having a look in the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio (where the clock-tower is).
From here we went through the Piazza Uffizi, with the columned walkways and statues dotted around, to the river side and to our view of the Ponte Vecchio – the famous bridge. We made our way to the bridge and crossed it. Odd having all the jewellery shops on the bridge with the river showing through the back windows.
On the other side we got an ice cream at a really busy place (and tourist priced) and sat on some benches nearby, before walking towards the Pitti Palace – with Bhavni flagging in the heat, intending to go to the Baboli gardens, so that Airyen could run around. However the gardens were closed today.
We then decided to find a place for lunch, so we carried on walking south, but nothing really appealed so we then headed up a different way, coming to a pizza restaurant, where we ate outside – the food was ok, but service was not great. But we found ourselves just next to the Piazza Santo Spirito which was worth a look around.
We then made our way across the river, via a few more plazzas to Plazza de Croce, where they had made a large stage for the upcoming games that are played here on this holiday. Nice to see the Basilica of Santa Croce there.
We then made our way back to the apartments, where we got to cool down. It was then time to go to the Spa, for Airyen an I. Bhavni again joined after a while – a bit busier today.
After a bit of rest we went to Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio, which was not to far away and had a nice playground for Airyen to let off some energy.
Then we made our way to Cucineria La Mattonaia, which was one of the recommended places by the hotel, but we thought we could try L’Ortone today as we were still early. Luckilly they had a space and we had some amazing pasta dishes – Mine was tagliatelle with truffle, whist Bhavni had hers with porcine mushrooms. Airyen had a nice penne pasta.
Back at the appartment, we headed to the roof, to watch the firework show.
25th June – Tuesday
After breakfast in the apartment, we headed out; down the walking street to Piazza del Duomo. Here we joined the queue to go in, which was already stretching most of the way around one side. It took a little while (an hour) before we got inside, by then the queue was out of sight, though I was annoyed at people casually queue jumping.
We took some photos inside and Airyen lit a few flames – its more impressive outside then in. Then we headed out, towards Piazza Santa Croce. Whilst on the way we passed a procession of a dozen or so Ferraris, slowly making their way through the town.
After taking in the Plaza, we decided to go into the Basilica of Santa Croce, paying the entrance. It was a good place to visit. We thought that the church was all there was initially, which was quite nice, but then we saw that there was much more areas to see, old frescos, exhibitions and going around the courtyard.
After leaving we went the opposite way to the Medici Buildings. Bhavni was melting, so stayed in the shadows whilst I took some photos.
We then took the Ponte Santa Trinita accross the river, where we took some pictures of the Ponte Vecchio.
It was then lunch time. We had a quick-ish meal (not that far away from yesterday) and then headed out towards Piazza le Michelangelo, which was initially a small climb, before a load of stairs and carrying the pushchair up there in the high 30’s heat. At the top were finally rewarded with views overlooking the city and all the sights that we had seen. Airyen had fallen asleep.
It was then time to go back to the apartments. This was quite a long walk in the heat – especially the initial decent. We crossed over the Ponte San Niccolò and walked near the main road to the apartments – it took about 30 minutes, with us worrying about the sun on sleeping Airyen.
We got to the apartment and got a chance to cool down and after Airyen woke, we went to the spa for a swim.
After we took a walk to the street near us to check out the shops and buy a few things. Then we went to the park again for Airyen to let of some steam.
For dinner we went to Cucineria La Mattonaia, for some nice food. Then it was back to the apartment for the night.
26th June – Wednesday
Waking up, we had breakfast in the room, before getting everything together and checking out. We go the hotel to retrieve the car from their underground car park. The guys at the desks gave us a run down of the route we had to take to be on out way – It passed Piazza le Michelangelo, where we struggled a bit yesterday.
We then took the windy roads for a bit until they joined the express way all the way to Sienna, about an hour later. Here we found some parking – though it was on the top floor of the parking and in the sun – we had to get a ticket which was a little bit of a challenge. But soon enough we had got Airyen in the stroller and powered up the initial hill climb, before catching the escalators to the walled city.
We did a little wonder, the fist place we saw (from the outside) was the Duomo di Siena, which was a really pretty church with a tower, before seeing the signs to the Tourist information, Bhavni talked to the lady behind the desk about the best route to see things with Airyen, to reduce the up/down that was here. The lady was a bit defensive and said that there will be hills – but understood finally and give a suggested route for us.
We then made out way to Piazza del Campo, which is the massive “square” in the centre, with its clock tower and old buildings around. We walked around the side area – this was a bit to avoid the sun as the temperature was approaching high 30’s (and it got nearly to 40C later). We took some pictures of the tower area from the courtyard underneath.
From there we had a wonder, getting a little lost with Bhavnis directions, but it was soon time for Lunch. We stopped at a cafe there, sitting right near the Air Cooler (It was nice to cool off). I tried their famous dish – fried pizza, whilst Airyen had pasta and Bhavni had something a bit like falafel. After lunch we made our way to Basilica di San Francesco, which is a very large rectangular church but very plain looking from outside. Inside it was very cavernous and adorned it the famous green and white marble stripes.
From there we saw a few more places then walked around the side of the football pitch, past the open market that was going on to Fortezza Medicea. Here we were high up on the walls and got some nice views of the walled city and also the lower city on the south side.
We went to a cafe – Bar Pasticceria Nannini Posta – for a gelato, sitting right inside. Then it was time to head back to the car. It was quite a long walk down, taking a different route as we did not see the escalators. We got to the parking and were about to leave when we realised that the camera was not with us – we had left it at the cafe. So Bhavni spent a while talking to the parking people to try to phone the bar – took a lot of convincing, but eventually she managed to get through and they had it. Now the parking guys told us that we would have to walk all the way up again. I was not having this, as I had seen the bar was next to the area where we could drive – not the exclusion zone. So we managed to get the camera.
Back on the road, we drove towards the famous towered town of San Gimigano, which was about and hour away. It was a really nice drive past rolling hills and countryside. By the time we got there Airyen had fallen asleep. We were keeping a look out for the towers, but it was hard to see any well. As we could not walk in, we stopped near a gate to take in the views, before continuing our journey. As we drove we took a side road as we saw some cars coming from there and wanted a view of the country side – what sheer luch for such a good view for seeing San Gimigano and the towers.
It was 4pm so we continued our way to Pisa, getting there around 5.45. We found some parking just outside the non parking regions, not far from our place to stay – Affittacamere Delfo. We met the owner – who was looking after his two dogs, went over the map of pizza and the things to see, then got shown to our room, where we settled in.
It was 7pm before we headed out, walking in through the city wall gate and past the university. Soon we got a first view of the leaning tower above the streets. We then came upon the complex, which has the Torre di Pisa, Cattedrale di Pisa and the Battistero di San Giovanni. It was really a great time to be here as the heat had died down and it was not that busy, so we could have great views and peace. We took our time looking around and taking photos of all the monuments.
It was nearly 8pm when we made our way back. We stopped at Osteria La Toscana (which the apartment owner had pointed out) for dinner. We ate inside thinking it might be easier with Mr.
We then went back towards the apartment, and to the gelato place that had been recommended to us – way too large a ice cream each! Then it was back to put Mr to sleep and then we chilled.
27th June – Thursday (Pisa – Genoa)
After breakfast in the apartment we checked out (well just left the keys) and loaded up the car before heading on the road.
It was just over an hours journey to La Spezia, but we had to make our way to the town centre and the train station. We were early enough that parking was not a problem and we were in the main parking. We took the lift to the station and bought tickets to Manarola. The lady was surprised we only wanted one of the stops and not all the town stops in Cinque De Terre, as most people spend some time around here.
We got the train – which took around 10 mins, and walked through the tunnel to the town proper. The first thing we did (after lots of sun tan lotion), was to walk up the hill to the top near Chiesa di San Lorenzo, It was really quite an effort with the stroller. Bhavni got some fruit from one of the shops, food was quite expensive (as expected). The view from the top was pretty good though and it was nice resting for a bit on the benches outside. We did go in the church also.
After we made our way down, past the train tunnel and to the lower town. We got the the sea front and took in the view, lovely sea and sunshine – many were swimming in the sea there.
We then followed the path around to the scenic view points – which really gave those postcard pictures of Manarola. As we were at Manarola earlier than I had planned we had a bit of time, and the heat was now oppressive, so we sat at the children’s playground near the viewpoint. We let Airyen play a bit in the shaded areas.
Soon it was lunch time, so I queued up at the line that had formed for Nessun Dorma – in direct 40c sunlight. It was unfortunate that they also opened late and then it was a press for people getting to tables. Anyway we managed to get on a table which was quite far in and covered. It took a little while for us to get a waiter, drinks ordered. For food it was a little shame that the focaccia was made with lard, so we had to have plain bread with our dishes – cold platters, sandwiches etc – they don’t do pizza or pasta, which appealed when I looked at it.
After lunch we headed back to the train station and caught the train back to La Spezia. It was good that the train came only a bit after we arrived at the station. At La Spezia we just had to get into the parking garage and then were away – en route to Genoa.
We took the main roads all the way and it was just 2 hours until we were in Genoa outside the Holiday Inn. The roads are a bit more chaotic in Genoa, so I took a few wrong turns. We were not sure of the parking (as the sign seemed to say it was full) so I went in and asked, but the guy told us to go in and through to the next parking. We did and then I parked and we all went to check in. They were really friendly there and said that we may not like the size of the rooms, so they asked if we would like to see the apartments that they have here, which we took. I had parked in the wrong place, so I moved the car and off loaded everything.
After a bit of a rest and cleanup, we left for a walk to go into town. We walked it to Dinegro (getting a bit of help to find the entrance) and took the subway to San Giorgio, which was the other side of the port. Getting out we wondered into a book store and had a wonder – buying a book. Then we went and had a drink at one of the cafes before finding the children’s playground where we let Airyen loose. Bhavni had to give a guy dressed in a bad Mickey Mouse costume some money as he made Airyen a balloon sword.
After a bit of time and wondering around – it was time to head back to the hotel. We headed to the Holiday Inn restaurant on site as we figured it was the easiest place to go, and Airyen would eat free.
We ordered a ravioli which had walnuts in it – it was amazing. We also had desert there – though we had one glass smashed….
Anyway after dinner we decided it would be nice to see Genoa at night. When Bhavni asked the guy at reception, he seemed a bit surprised as most people do not want to drive as parking is really difficult. He was not wrong. He suggested a place, when we just said we were just after a lookout – Belvedere Castelletto. It took a little while to get there, no way we would have tried without sat nav. Parking seemed utterly full, but luckily I actually spotted a place to park, so we went and had a look out. The place was really buzzing and it had a good view of the main city, which we took many photos of. You could even see the famous Lanterna di Genoa (old lighthouse) from here. After walking around for a while we headed back to the hotel. It was even more amusing a journey back, taking the freeway for a bit then the windy roads. They had moving cars, but it was surprisingly empty of traffic – most had parked (or triple parked ) for the night. Back at the hotel, we called it a night.
28th June – Friday (Genoa – Garda)
After breakfast we walked to the station and took the train all the way to De Ferrari. We quickly took in the Piazza De Ferrari with its big water fountain, before walking to Porta Soprana (gate in the old wall). Then it was back to the Piazza, where we spent a bit of time, letting Airyen run around.
A really short walk nearby was Piazza Matteotti, which had a really ornate building housing a few art museums. Plenty of school groups. Next on the tour was the nearby Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, another of the really nice churches with alternating green and white marble.
From here we had a wonder on the old streets slowly making our way towards Via Garibildi. All the shops were closed they open after 10am, which was a pity as Bhavni saw a few shops she would have liked to go into. From Via Garibildi you could see the routes leading up to Belvedere Castelletto, where we were yesterday. We sat and had some drinks at a cafe there in the tables outside before having a look inside some of the entrances of some buildings – amazing painted and vaulted ceilings for banks.
We did not really have enough time to go into any of the palaces here (and also I dont think Airyen would have appreciated it), which were the main tourist attraction here. Instead we made our way back to Piazza De Ferrari, where we had another walk around.
The famous Via Settembre street led from here, which had lots of shops with covered walkways on either side, with striped marble walls. We made our way to Ponte Monumentale (a big bridge) popping into a few shops, then made our way back on the other side. Going into the shops was nice even for me – a little out of the heat and a change of pace – though we only bought a little.
It was then back on the train from De Ferrari back to the hotel area. We all crossed the crazy roads to go to the supermarket (Coop), which was massive, to buy some supplies for the next few days. Then Back at the hotel, where we had lunch in their restaurant, with Airyen and I going first whilst Bhavni wrapped up the packing. Some pasta later and it was time to check out (after the struggle loading the car by taking the bags through the passages and flights of stairs).
We were then on out way to Lake Garda. It was a long 3h plus drive, with a while getting away from the Genoa region. Slowly the hills faded away and we were in flatlands for a while. However as we came close to the lake, the hills re-appeared. I tried to buy milk, but I think I wondered into a butchers where the people did not speak any English at all. The final push to the apartment was making our way up near to the top of the hills, to La cornice sul Garda.
When we arrived there was no one to great us, and we had no idea where we were meant to be. So Bhavni had fun phoning the owner, then we sat near the pool, but it was not that long before she came and showed us around the apartment. It was a really nice place, over 2 floors, with the 2 bedrooms on the lower floor and the kitchen/lounge upstairs. We settled in and unpacked, then took Airyen for a swim, whilst we put dinner on – Soup, which we had with some nice bread.
29th June – Saturday
Waking up and taking in the views from high up, we had a nice breakfast, got ready and headed out. We were advised by the owner of the apartment that as it is the weekend, Sirimone would be busy, so instead we made our way slowly along the west of the lake, taking in the views until we got to Limone Sul Garda.
As we took are time, it was 1.5 hours later when we got there. It was quite busy, but we parked fine in the multi story car park there (on the main floor). From there we asked the tourist guys about the boats. There was one leaving very soon, however we decided to eat fist and catch a later boat. We walk up to the restaurant “Jacky”. It was quite nice, and we enjoyed some Italian and chips with some drinks.
After we had finished we headed back to the dock and bought some return tickets, catching the boat to Malcesine. It was quite a smooth journey and all 3 of us sat enjoying the views (there were lots of boats and water sports going on). As we approached Malcesine the famous castle came into view, perched upon the rock, before we sailed past and docked. The dock was slightly further out of the main centre, so we had to walk into the centre, stopping at a home shop to have a look first.
In the town proper, we wondered around the town taking in the sights, making our way slowly to the foot of Scaliger Castle. It was then time to head back (after the obligatory gelato). The boat was a bit busier on the way back.
Picking up the car in Limone, we drove back to the apartment, slow going as there was lots of cars on the single road around the lake. Back we had time to relax for a bit including going for a swim, before having dinner – fresh pasta with fresh pesto on the balcony.
After dinner I went and got some supplies from Lidl in the nearest town, then we settled in for the night watching some TV.
30th June – Sunday
After a leisurely breakfast, we decided to be a little more local today. We decided to go see the paper museum, which was not far from Maderno. We had to travel up the valley a bit and park at the car park before proceeding by foot for a bit. It was a lovely valley, with a river running down it.
We entered and bought tickets after talking to the lady behind the counter. The museum started with the history of paper, then went on to show how it was made in the valley, with then the modern methods and the demise of the valley. It was quite a nice place to go, quiet and entertaining.
After wondering slowly through the 2 buildings, we took some photos outside with the bridge over the river. Then we headed to the adjoining restaurant, initially just for a drink, but as it was a really peaceful place, outside in the shade near the river and the menu looked tempting, we ordered lunch, including a nice olive pate sandwich. Airyen enjoyed a nice chocolate ice cream.
Then we wondered up the valley to a few more of the abandoned mills, which were cool and gave us great photo opportunities.
Then it was time to head back. Airyen fell asleep in the car, so we went into Salo to a Laundromat to put some of our clothes for a wash. We did a little random drive to the waterfront whilst waiting for them.
Back at the apartment we went for a swim, before a nice dinner of risotto on the balcony. Then a little tv and packing after putting Airyen to sleep.
1st July – Monday (Garda – Bologna)
Our last day near Lake Garda, after breakfast on the balcony, we checked out and drove to Sirimone, getting to a parking just before 11am. The parking looked out over the lake, so it was nice to walk up towards the town. Soon enough we were crossing the bridge at Castello di Sirmione, where we decided to follow the walk around the coast – this was quite hard as in many places it had stairs – not suitable for strollers.
In the end after feeling like we were going around in circles, we headed back to the main part near the castle, where Bhavni got a gelato and I a blue slush puppy – not great. It was getting to lunch time so Bhavni picked a random restaurant – lovely location on tables over the lake. However some of the waiters were not that impressed with us coming in with the push chair etc. We ordered pasta for Airyen, a salad and giant tortellini. I was not impressed with the tortellini, overcooked pasta! First bad pasta in Italy. Anyway after lunch we headed back to the parking and were soon on our way to Bologna.
It was nearly a 3h drive to Bologna. As we were staying in the centre of the city, we could not bring the car in – One option would have been to take the car to the Airport and drop it early – but we had lots of luggage and transporting that around would have been crazy. So the other option was to park at a nearby car park and catch a bus in – so that is what we did – parking at Cimitero monumentale della Certosa (the main cemetery) and taking a couple of small bags with us – leaving the bigger suitcases inside.
We had to walk a little to the next road, where the bus goes from – really hot. But just as Bhavni said I had better ask if the bus comes here, it came along. A quick bus ride later and we were in the centre of Bologna.
We were right near Piazza Maggiore, at the Apartments Centre Bologna. When we arrived, we had to phone the owner, who came over (after 15mins or so) and let us in the apartment – 3rd floor no stairs. It was a very old school apartment, which reminded me of those small places we used to see in Kenya or India, but it was fine for us, especially with the location.
After settling in, we got ready and headed out, first to Piazza Maggiore, going through Palazzo Re Enzo and to the fountain of Neptune – Airyen loves fountains. Then we saw the outside of Basilica di San Petronio – the unfinished fronted church. Then we headed to Teatro Anatomico, where we saw the courtyard. I Wondered upstairs to see the insides – which were full of painted ceilings and arches, but I did not go to the museum. We then wondered around a few more sights before coming back towards the famous two towers.
After going back to the apartments to freshen up, we headed for dinner, where we ate at La Sberla bistrot – not far away at all. Some was great, some a bit miss.
Back at the apartments we all went to bed quite early, having taken both bed rooms (and after I had a bubble tea).
2nd July – Tuesday
After breakfast at the apartment, we went out to do some more sight seeing. This included another look at Piazza Maggiore and the surroundings, before venturing further to the older quarters (with the window over the old canal at Finestrella).
We then went to Montagnola Park, where we found a playground for Airyen to run around in for a while. There was also a fountain, where we took some photos.
After lunch we stopped in a few shops, looking for some pasta to get for presents, but Airyen was getting tired, so we went back to the apartment, where Airyen slept, and I watched some TV. Bhavni went shopping for a few hours.
In the evening we went out for dinner, after which we had a walk around in the evening, buying some more pasta.
Then back to the apartment to put Airyen to bed, packed, made some food for the journey and then rested ourselves.
3rd July – Wednesday
After breakfast, we left took all our bags down took the bus by 9.30 to go to where our car was parked. Already it was getting hot, so even that walk from the bus stop to the car was a bit of an effort.
At the car, Bhavni did the final rearranging of the bags, before we set off for the airport. Dropping the car at the airport, where the guy at the rental place said thanks for looking after the car, Bhavni luckily managed to get a trolley. So we dropped the bags off and went through security. This was really quick.
Soon enough it was time to board and take the flight back to Heathrow.
Back in London, we got our bags. However the stroller never arrived. It seemed to have gone on another flight. After a bit of trying to figure out a solution, they gave us a new push chair.
We headed to the car – the pod’s were working, so this was nice and novel for us. Loading up we were off, though we were in lots of traffic for most of the journey.